One of the biggest concerns for women today is premature aging. Hyperpigmentation is one of the most significant consequences of early aging. Pigment spots give us an older appearance. Dyschromia, that is, the appearance of an uneven complexion that suggests future spots, must also be considered.
The Basics You Need to Know
Hyperpigmentation has nothing to do with the number of melanocytes in the skin; it depends more on the activity of these cells. As we age, these cells become fewer, and their activity becomes less well-regulated. Each melanocyte in the epidermis is connected to a group of keratinocytes (epidermal cells that synthesize keratin), to which it delivers pigments. This structure is known as the epidermal melanin unit.
There are two types of melanin produced by melanocytes: eumelanin, which is brown, and pheomelanin, which is yellow-red. Both are formed inside melanocytes through the oxidation of the amino acid tyrosine under the action of the enzyme tyrosinase.
This specific skin cell is located in the basal layer of the epidermis and produces melanin, a pigment responsible for skin coloration and protection. These dendritic cells transfer pigment particles to surrounding epidermal cells.
Freckles, age spots, and dark or patchy skin discolorations intensify under the influence of sunlight. This results from the absorption of UV rays, a process that serves as the skin’s self-protection mechanism. Hyperpigmentation can appear diffusely or in concentrated areas, such as on the face or the backs of the hands.
Melanin is a pigment produced by melanocytes. It is responsible for the natural coloring of the eyes, skin, and hair. During natural aging, the distribution of melanocytes in the body and skin becomes irregular. UV rays stimulate melanocyte activity. As soon as these cells cluster together, pigment spots form.
For a long time, we have been taught that the sun is the primary factor behind hypermelanogenesis. However, several other factors increase the risk of its development.
Genes, hormonal changes, and certain medications are highly photosensitizing. Any oxidative process within the metabolism also creates a situation that predisposes individuals to pigment spots.
Recent research has attributed significant responsibility to pollution and its free radicals, which are closely linked to aging and hypermelanogenesis. Simply being constantly exposed to free radicals increases the risk. It is, therefore, very important to better advise our clients on this matter.
First and foremost, having a proper daily cleansing routine with a suitable product helps remove pollution and its harmful effects on the skin. Using a day cream adapted to our skin type and condition is also necessary. Adding sun protection, depending on planned activities throughout the day, becomes crucial. Using a product containing anti-pollution active ingredients is a major asset, especially in urban areas. These innovative active ingredients provide increased protection and help skin regeneration by boosting its renewal.
In summary, prevention is key.
Maria Galland, Paris, offers this innovative and highly relevant anti-pollution complex in several of its latest formulations, addressing the core concerns of women, particularly those living in urban areas.
Martine Bisaillon
